Imagine an event with 34 fashion shows, ten of them international, and four fashion presentations in five days. Imagine that in these shows and presentations the new collections of the leading names in Portuguese fashion were revealed. Imagine that young national and international designers also have the opportunity to showcase their creations. Imagine that the 52nd Portugal Fashion also included ten parallel initiatives, from a professional showroom to an industrial itinerary, including a live performance and a happening. Imagine, then, a great celebration of fashion to share with the world.
It was in a large, uncluttered space, with the vintage resonance of an old automobile garage, that the show schedule for the 52nd Portugal Fashion Imagine unfolded. Between numbers 37 and 93 of Rua Latino Coelho, in Porto, the event showcased the latest creations from renowned names such as Marques’Almeida – the international fashion star duo who will open the catwalk -, Alexandra Moura, David Catalán (who closed the 52nd edition), Diogo Miranda, Estelita Mendonça, Hugo Costa, Maria Gambina, Miguel Vieira, Nuno Miguel Ramos, Pé de Chumbo, Pedro Pedro, Sophia Kah, and Susana Bettencourt.
It was also in the old garage that the Spanish designer Victor Huarte, with his homonymous brand, rose for the first time to the main runway of the event and where the creations of the ex-bloomer Carolina Sobral and the brands Davii and Nopin were presented. It was also planned, for the same space, a collective show of footwear brands, in which the quality and competitiveness of the sector was put in evidence.
On the first floor of Rua Latino Coelho also took place the eight shows of the Bloom platform, which brings together young Portuguese and African designers, the latter under the CANEX project. On this occasion, tooke place the shows of the winners of the Bloom Contest powered by Zeitreel, Andreia Reimão and Kaya Magalhães. Highlight also to the debut of House Of Wildflowers, brand created by the Anglo-Israeli designer living in Portugal Amir Shavit, who also participated in the competition for young designers.
The space that, in this edition, serves as the event’s headquarters also hosted the 4th edition of CANEX Presents Africa @ Portugal Fashion. The CANEX program (acronym for Creative Africa Nexus) is the result of a partnership between ANJE, through Portugal Fashion, and the African export-import bank Afreximbank, with the purpose of promoting the African textile and clothing industry in our country.
The CANEX Presents Africa @ Portugal Fashion works as a growth platform for emerging African designers, providing them with the strengthening of skills through mentoring by Portuguese industry experts, as well as market access opportunities through specialized support in production, sales and distribution.
Finally, we must also highlight the runway show and the two off-location presentations. Katty Xiomara presented her latest collection in an atmosphere of charm, refinement, and fin de siècle enchantment that oozes from the 19th century Grande Hotel do Porto. The footwear and accessories designer Luís Onofre and the Ernest W. Baker brand held their presentations in their preferred locations. In the first case, the presentation took place at Luís Onofre’s store in Porto (Av. da Boavista, 3483) and, in the second case, a dinner-presentation was scheduled at Ernest W. Baker’s studio, also in Porto (Praça da Corujeira, 54).
Founded in 2017, in Viana do Castelo, Ernest W. Baker is a tribute to Reid Baker’s namesake grandfather, one of Detroit’s first advertisers, and combines the pragmatism of the American way of life with European elegance and classicism, in a clash of cultures that underlines the best of both worlds. Reid Baker and Inês Amorim’s brand is enjoying great international success, with points of sale in more than 20 countries and the preference of planetary stars, such as musicians Pharrel Williams and The Weeknd, who have appeared in public wearing the duo’s creations.
The 52nd Portugal Fashion took place at a time of disruption in the economy’s funding ecosystem, resulting from the transition between EU support frameworks. Because of this fact, it was not possible for the project/event promoted by ANJE to submit an application to the Compete program, in which Portugal Fashion’s funding usually falls. To mitigate the absence of public incentives, an “edition of commitment” was organized, as Portugal Fashion’s director, Mónica Neto, calls it, financed exclusively with private sponsorships and support from various institutions, especially from the fashion industry.
“This edition is marked by strong financial constraints, only possible to minimize with the effort of ANJE and our private and institutional partners. An effort that shows that Portugal Fashion continues to mobilize many entities and players in the fashion industry and beyond, who firmly believe in the validity, relevance, interest and necessity of the project,” said Mónica Neto.
“Postponing this edition was not, for us, a possibility. That would be a disregard for the creators and brands whose work success depends, to a large extent, on the support of Portugal Fashion. We didn’t want to disappoint them, or the public that has been with us for over 25 years. We feel that Portuguese fashion has confidence in us and, therefore, we will not lower our guard,” continued the director of Portugal Fashion.
Regardless of the resumption of funding through European incentives, as planned, the organization of Portugal Fashion feels that there is a need to rethink the project/event. Therefore, it started a reflection process on the future of Portugal Fashion, which already had, in this edition, its first initiative: the Re.Port / Portugal Fashion 23-26 – Future Strategy.
The strategic reflection on Portugal Fashion is a process led by ANJE, with the support of CEGE – Center for Studies in Management and Economics of the Portuguese Catholic University and Deloitte Portugal. It is also planned that this process will involve the textile, clothing and footwear sector (entrepreneurs and managers, sector associations, investors), the creative fashion industry (creators, designers, buyers, influencers, journalists), public entities (government, municipalities, financial institutions, sponsors, public entities for development promotion) and the Academy (higher education institutions, fashion schools, R&D centers, entrepreneurial ecosystems).
All these actors will be called to give their opinion on critical aspects for the future of Portugal Fashion: from the positioning of the event in the fashion industry to its financial sustainability, the organization of the fashion shows, the partners and suppliers involved, the institutional collaborations, the relationship with the industry and the market, the international component of the project and its contribution to the digital, energy and climate transitions of the textile, clothing and footwear sectors.
“It is time to point to the future,” says Mónica Neto. “We must find a new path for Portugal Fashion to strengthen its role in the fashion industry and its strength as a catalyst for talent, creativity and innovation. Now, to find a new strategic direction for Portugal Fashion, it is necessary to study, debate and propose alternatives to the current model. Nothing should be left out of this reflection exercise and all actors in the industry will be called upon to present their ideas, opinions and proposals,” stressed the director of Portugal Fashion.
As usual, Portugal Fashion presented a set of parallel events to the fashion show calendar. Among this dozen events, there was an industrial itinerary for the partners of the CANEX project, a professional showroom, an exhibition, a happening, a competition and a live performance.
Taking place at Rua Latino Coelho, the showroom followed the same pattern as in previous editions of Portugal Fashion. Its partners were the Marques Soares chain and Tranoï (Paris Fashion Week trade show) and it complemented the promotional and spectacular effect of the fashion shows, giving designers and brands the opportunity to showcase their collections, contact the public, develop marketing initiatives and carry out sales actions. A networking cocktail was planned for Friday, the 15th, at 5:30 pm, in this Portugal Fashion showroom.
On the 2nd day of Portugal Fashion, Wednesday 15th, the exhibition/installation “NorteShopping presents Show Off powered by amma” has opened and will be on show for a week at the gallery of the shopping center in Senhora da Hora. The show includes pieces of the designers and brands David Catalán, Davii, Alexandra Moura, Susana Bettencourt, Pedro Pedro, Nopin, Pé de Chumbo, Judy Sanderson and Estelita Mendonça.
It should be noted that NorteShopping has very recently established an annual collaboration with Portugal Fashion. This partnership includes a pop up with creations by national designers, as well as a more comprehensive action in the next edition of the event, in October. In turn, amma is a showroom that has supported Portugal Fashion in international actions of commercial promotion. Therefore, in this exhibition/installation there is the intention to promote the interaction of the public/consumer with the designers’ author fashion pieces.
On Thursday the 16th, a contest for bloomers (participants in the Bloom platform)was presented, in which they are challenged to develop a multifunctional bag. The initiative is called “Imagine-a-Bag” and is promoted jointly by Vila do Conde Porto Fashion Outlet and Freeport Lisboa Fashion Outlet.
On Saturday the 18th, the Municipality of Freixo de Espada à Cinta brought to Portugal Fashion the handmade silk, which is unique in the Iberian Peninsula. Thus, throughout the day, there was an exhibition at the World of Wine, in Vila Nova de Gaia, allusive to the handmade silk from Trás-os-Montes, which included a live performance with artisans. In this way, Portugal Fashion helps to promote a traditional activity and a fabric of excellence in our country, highlighting the quality of national know-how in the textile sector.
Note also for the after show parties: the first, on Friday 17, took place at Café Lusitano and included a happening by Judy Sanderson, designer of African origin living in Porto and who debuts in Portugal Fashion; the second, on Saturday 18, took place at Pérola Negra nightclub and included the special participation of Ana Moura, who was in Invicta for a concert at the Super Bock Arena – Pavilhão Rosa Mota. This latest party, entitled “After Show Party at Casa Guilhermina” (the name of the fado singer’s latest album), was supported by the Contracoutura publishing project.
Portuguese designer Maria Gambina has taken a new step in the digitalization of her fashion business with the launch of a new website and online store.
Since the end of May, the pieces of the renowned Portuguese fashion designer are available just a visit away at www.mariagambina.com. The brand’s offer includes women’s and men’s fashion, with unique pieces and all the characteristic aesthetics of Maria Gambina’s DNA: colors, patterns, graphic elements, in cool but relaxed options.
In the words of Maria Gambina, in the announcement made on May 26 on the Instagram platform, the designer did not hide her enthusiasm when presenting the new feature that translates into an important step for her business. “For 3 months building a website, for 30 years building a brand. If in those 30 years the desire was often to create and materialize in garments what was in my soul, after 30 years the essence is the same but with the added certainty that it’s my business. Every attitude I take is now focused on the goal of reaching further, not in terms of projecting my self but of reaching a wider audience that can identify with a brand that doesn’t follow “fashions”, that has an identity, an exclusive design, that is fun, colorful, cool, contemporary, quality, made mostly with organic and recycled materials and super important… timeless, that for all this makes it a sustainable brand because it is not dated and you wear it, wear it, wear it and wear it.”
But the new online store not only serves to facilitate access to the pieces designed and produced by the designer, usually integrated into Portugal Fashion’s official calendar of fashion shows. It is also possible to embark on a true journey back in time through Maria Gambina’s iconic collections launched over the years, since 1994.
And there is also room for music, one of the designer’s other great passions. Every week, Maria Gambina shares one of her favorite music programs on this new platform, tailored to the designer’s personality
The launch of the online store of the Portuguese designer is an important step in bringing designer fashion – of local production, responsible and unique – closer to the general public. Still, the brand will keep its physical store in Porto for those who prefer to visit directly.
The final phase of the European REBELPIN Fashion Awards competition will take place at the next edition of Portugal Fashion, to be held in October 2022.
The competition offers young entrepreneurs and students from Europe the opportunity to present their skills and creativity to the international fashion and textile industry, giving them the chance to connect with this activity sector.
The theme of this edition is “Genderless, anywhere, anytime”, and each designer will present three looks, which will be evaluated by a European jury. Two finalists will be awarded: one winner will be chosen by the jury, and the other will be voted for by the public on social media.
The initiative counts with the support of the Municipality of Santo Tirso, as an active member of the ACTE – Association of European Textile Collectivities network.
The deadline for applications is June 08, 2022, and all information about the contest is available here.
Additional information and clarifications can be obtained through rebelpin@acte.net and also from INVEST Santo Tirso through 252 809 120 or invest@cm-stirso.pt.
Portuguese designer Alexandra Moura accepted Fly London’s challenge to design four skins – part of a capsule collection – which introduce the footwear brand to the metaverse.
The initiative reflects the portuguese brand’s desire to reach a younger audience, modernizing its identity and being one step ahead in the fashion industry trends.
The bet on virtual reality is also made in partnership with the cyber-physical systems department of IPCA – Polytechnic Institute of Cávado and Ave -, allowing, with the junction of the three national entities, to create an ideal environment, designed in line with the bold and disruptive identity of Fly London and bringing elements such as the unmistakable fly that accompanies the motto “Don’t Walk, Fly”.
Through the Roblox platform, four mini-games are made available (parkour, survival runner, basketball and Fly Man) and a virtual store with London inspiration, which also incorporates representations of some monuments and world landmarks. The virtual store displays four mannequins with different skins, and players can purchase these skins using FlyPoints, which can be accumulated in the various mini-games.
Portugal Fashion and Tranoï, the official trade show partner of the Paris Fashion Week, signed an exclusive partnership for six editions in Paris and three editions in Porto. In addition to the participation of Portuguese designers in the show in France, Tranoï is responsible for inviting buyers to the national editions of Portugal Fashion, until October 2023.
Supported by Tranoï’s huge network of contacts, Portugal Fashion joins a partner of enormous international relevance for the promotion of Portuguese fashion.
For Mónica Neto, director of Portugal Fashion, “the partnership with Tranoi is another important step towards the internationalization of Portuguese designers in its commercial and business side. A key point, and fundamental, for Portugal Fashion in promoting Portuguese fashion across borders. With this partnership, and taking advantage of the enormous network of contacts with buyers and press from all over the world that the French Fashion Week’s b2b partnership provides, there is a real possibility for Portuguese designers and brands to have business opportunities and thus be financially sustainable.
The first participation in Paris, after the agreement signed, will be in the men’s week, in June 2022, with designers David Catalán, Estelita Mendonça and Huarte, at Palais Tokyo. In each edition, Portugal Fashion will be responsible for proposing the names to participate, and Tranoï will be in charge of choosing and curating the brands, using its know-how of several years and evaluating the international positioning that each brand may have in the several world markets.
Tranoï’s CEO, Boris Provost, welcomes the “exclusive partnership with Portugal Fashion. The Portuguese designers that we will receive in the next 6 editions of Tranoi are part of a new generation of designers that have an ambitious vision of fashion. I thank Portugal Fashion for their involvement, I am very happy to receive these designers, and to disseminate their work to all fashion professionals”.
The Portuguese brand Ernest W. Baker returned to the international stage. This time, it was the rapper ASAP Rocky who showed off a suit made by the Portuguese designer duo in the music video for his new single “DMB”, dedicated to his girlfriend Rihanna.
The suit was chosen for the scene in which the artist asks Rihanna to marry him. In the video, Rocky acts with his girlfriend, pregnant with the couple’s first child, whose birth is expected soon.
Born in Viana do Castelo by Reid Baker and Inês Amorim, the Ernest W. Baker brand stands out for the designers’ American and Minho heritage. It is a tribute to Reid’s grandfather, who was one of the first advertising executives in Detroit, Michigan, which is also inspired by Inês’ northern Portuguese roots.
Aiming to promote its brand, institution and mission internationally, Portugal Fashion launched its first international campaign. The launch of this new message, which aims to be heard across borders, was realized with the presentation of issue 0 of its zine Re:PORT , a celebration of the many facets of Portuguese fashion – the history, the regions, the people, and the current state.
Issue 0 focuses on the anatomy of Portugal and its talents from around the country. It views Portugal from a different angle and invites the viewer to discover the talents in every part of the land.
Portuguese have been known as explorers, a nation that bridged the borders between the West and the South. So as with fashion – garments, and designs that tell the rich cultural story bridge cultural barriers yet leave enough room for viewers to cultivate their own interpretations of the shows.
This campaign is not about what these creations mean, but how they are worn and how they generate meaning through the act of wearing and remembrance or provenance. The meaning that extends beyond words and images.
The venue chosen for the official launch of the international campaign was Alfândega do Porto, in a moment included in the official calendar of events of the 50º national edition of Portugal Fashion. The event included a cocktail, which brought together national and international press, as well as some guests associated with the fashion industry. The grand opening was in charge of a conversation between the artist Pedro Mafama and the host of Portugal Fashion’s digital broadcast – Hugo Van der Ding – about the Portuguese identity in the world.
It’s worth remembering that PORTUGAL FASHION is a promotional project of Portuguese fashion, created by ANJE – Associação Nacional de Jovens Empresários (National Association of Young Entrepreneurs) in 1995 with the intention of provoking a change of paradigm in the Portuguese textile sector.
Both in Portugal and abroad, investment in young designers is also one of the pillars of PORTUGAL FASHION. The project seeks to act as a lever for emerging talents to renew the national fashion scene, facilitate the integration of new designers into the labor market, and fill any gaps that companies in the textile, clothing and footwear sector may have in terms of design.
FOR PRESS ENQUIRIES AND MORE INFORMATION: abel@studiosmith.es
The Pé de Chumbo collection for winter 22/23 became a protest against the war in Ukraine, despite not having been born for that purpose. The brand’s creator, Alexandra Oliveira, already had the collection ready when the war started, but decided to “transform and adapt” it.
«I wanted to make a protest against the war, against all that is happening (…) A manifestation of support for people that are suffering and that we feel through images that squeeze our hearts», commented the designer.
To give more visibility to this intention, Pé de Chumbo partnered with the Italian artist Fiumani, who designed several t-shirts to complete some of the coordinations. The t-shirts wer available for sale right after the show in some physical stores that sell Pé de Chumbo products, and also on Instagram. The profits of the sales will revert 100% to Cruz Vermelha, in support of the victims of the conflict ravaging the Ukrainian territory.
The 50th edition of Portugal Fashion took place almost without restrictions imposed by the pandemic, but without forgetting what is happening in Eastern Europe.
«On one hand, there is a return to normality and we were able to have more public, with the relief of restrictions; on the other hand, we have a war going on and, therefore, what we did was focus more on the professional, because it is not a time for celebration.» said the project director, Mónica Neto.
To pre-order Pé de Chumbo x Fiumani t-shirts, contact ines@pedechumbo.pt.
It’s already been 50. “More than enough to have gone to the heart, to the essence, and show it to the world”. These are the words of the Portugal Fashion organization that reaches 50 editions with a memorable fashion program. The unique essence of the event, untouched by the passage of time, was felt in the fashion shows, in the hustle and bustle of the backstage, in the live streaming edition conducted by Raquel Strada and Hugo Van der Ding, in the Showroom with a format designed for professional audiences and in all the parallel events.
Between March 16 and 19, different spaces in Alfândega do Porto and also off location (in the charming Ateneu Comercial do Porto), were lit up with the new collections that gave way to almost 50 fashion shows. The CANEX program was once again hosted by the event, presenting 8 fashion shows by African designers.
It was an edition made “from the inside out”, and it would have been nothing without all those who helped to shape it. To all the supports, partners, and sponsors, a big thank you. From the inside out, from us to you.
INSTITUTIONAL PARTNERS
Afreximbank and CANEX
The 50th Portugal Fashion included the 2nd edition of CANEX (acronym for Creative Africa Nexus), a program that results from a partnership between ANJE and Afreximbank (African Export-Import Bank). The CANEX program brings together 20 designers of African origin, of which eight presented their collections in runway shows (three in the Bloom platform and five in the main runway), with the aim of promoting the African textile and clothing industry in Portugal. In this sense, it works as a development platform for emerging African designers, providing them with skills enhancement and market access opportunities. CANEX has a $500 million (about 460 million euros) fund to support creative industries.
Institutional partner of Portugal Fashion for another edition, the Porto City Council joined the 50th edition, supporting the project with increased resources in order to strengthen the position of the event in the national and international fashion scene, and also highlighting the recognition of Porto as an industrial and creative hub. With this strategic cooperation, the goal was to boost the professional component of Portugal Fashion, in the framework of a city historically linked to the national manufacturing industries in the textile, clothing and footwear sectors.
HAIR
The Portuguese Lupabiológica is once again the official hair brand of the 50th edition of Portugal Fashion. It is the supplier of all hair cosmetics products and responsible for ensuring the coordination of hairstyling services of the event. The Bioseivas products of this 100% national brand were part of the official gift bag of Portugal Fashion. On the last night of the event, the brand also presented its Hairbook by Lupabiológica, in a campaign that brings together a lot of Portuguese talent.
MAKE UP
Andreia Professional is the beauty partner of the 50th edition of Portugal Fashion. It provided make-up products and services for all the fashion shows and productions throughout the event, presenting a wide range of items that met the high demands of the make-up in the fashion world. Some products were part of Portugal Fashion’s official gift bags.
SPONSORS
El Corte Inglés was present at Portugal Fashion with the aim of promoting Portuguese fashion brands and creators. In addition to the promotion of new trends in a space designed for photo sharing on Instagram, the brand also provided boat rides for some guests of the event.
PAC Capital is a leading transaction advisory firm with an excellent track record in fundraising and financial advisory services covering Aviation, Financial Services, Telecommunications, Power & Energy, Oil & Gas, Agribusiness, Hospitality, etc. As a strategic partner, they have allied to Portugal Fashion, following the Portugal-Africa collaboration.
MOBILITY PARTNER
SIXT is once again Portugal Fashion’s 50th edition mobility partner, responsible for providing several premium vehicles and transfer shuttles during several days of the event to the international press, buyers, mentors, Afreximbank entourage, CANEX designers and other special guests. SIXT had a pick up point next to the Neya hotel, and was essential to drive such a divergent team and public, from several national and international points.
INDUSTRIAL PARTNERS
Associação Seletiva Moda | ATP | From Portugal
For the 50th edition, some strategic partnerships were established between Portugal Fashion and entities such as the Porto Selective Association, ATP (Textile and Clothing Association of Portugal) and the From Portugal project. These partnerships allow Portugal Fashion to embrace all sectors of the fashion industry and create synergies between them, in order to strengthen the international dimension, the differentiation capacity and the competitive potential of Portuguese companies and products.
Lulubell is a consulting firm that offers services and tailored solutions for African luxury brands seeking to create and accelerate their business in global markets, while remaining conscious of the people they serve and the planet they inhabit. In this edition, they were responsible for articulating the connection between Portugal Fashion and the African designers that, under the CANEX project, integrated the runways (Main and Bloom) and the BrandUp of the 50th Portugal Fashion.
HOTEL
The Neya Porto Hotel is the official hotel of the 50th edition of Portugal Fashion. It hosted press and several influencers and guests who came to Porto. The offer of stays was essential to host such a diverse team, which in addition to extending, as usual, to people from all corners of the country, included again an African entourage of designers and their production teams. Its Viva Porto restaurant also served some dinners for parallel events to the runway shows.
TV
RTP was the partner television of the 50th Portugal Fashion, supporting the promotion and communication of the event.
RÁDIO
Antena 3 was associated with another edition of Portugal Fashion, promoting the official spot with a special broadcast.
MEDIA PARTNERS
Caras | Máxima | Modem | Porto Canal | Portuguese Soul | Quartely | Saber Viver
Caras, Máxima, Modem, Porto Canal, Portuguese Soul, Quartely and Saber Viver were the media that officially associated themselves with the event and closely followed all the action lived in Alfândega do Porto and other places of parades, from the backstage to the environment that integrated the warm public. The publications of the media partnerships were essential to give more amplitude to the project’s communication plan.
DIGITAL MEDIA PARTNER
AMAKA is a digital publishing house that presents diverse and nuanced stories for women from Africa and the diaspora. They provide a platform that highlights and maintains the diversity, dynamism and vigor of pan-African femininity. In this edition, they covered the action that includes African designers on the runways of Portugal Fashion.
MONITORING PARTNER
A long-standing partner, CISION walks alongside Portugal Fashion, monitoring the communication of the event permanently, both in the press and in the social networks. It is thanks to this Monitoring Partner that Portugal Fashion also evaluates all the impact of its action.
RESPONSABILITY PARTNER
The National Road Safety Authority (ANSR) joined once again the 50th edition of Portugal Fashion as the Official Responsibility Partner, with a campaign to raise awareness of the dangers of using a cell phone while driving. They were present with a simulator and challenged the guests to drive while writing messages on their cell phones. This partnership was once again supported by the designer Katty Xiomara, who launched pieces for her new collection focused on the theme of cell phone use while driving. The collection’s t-shirts and tote bags were marked with the message: “Driving? Phone Off!”.
BLOOM CONTEST SPONSOR
The 50th Portugal Fashion integrated in its programme several fashion shows under the Bloom project, dedicated to the promotion and support of new Portuguese fashion talents and, specifically, two shows associated with the BLOOM competition powered by Zeitreel Sonae. Portugal Fashion’s partnership with Zeitreel facilitates the launch of young competitors into the job market, through the retail brands that the Sonae group has in the national clothing sector. The fashion company of the Sonae group once again bets on the future, on talent and on training, providing an educational and professional experience to young designers.
BLOOM CONTEST SUPPORT
The Catholic Business School debuts as a partner of the 50th edition of Portugal Fashion, as part of the Bloom Competition prizes, enabling the winner to attend a post-graduation course in Fashion Management at its installations.
The Showpress agency is also part of the prizes awarded by the Bloom Competition, offering the winners its press advisory and showroom services for six months.
HAPPY PARTNER
The Café Lusitano was the place to relax and socialize on Friday and Saturday nights after the fashion shows. Known as one of the most emblematic spaces in the city of Porto, Café Lusitano made the 50th edition of Portugal Fashion even more memorable by organizing two after parties for guests of the fashion edition.
SUPPORT
The municipal company Águas do Porto is associated with Portugal Fashion under the campaign “Bebe Água do Porto”, a behavioral change program for the consumption of tap water in the city of Porto. Another bet on sustainability and good practices!
Bogani was present in this edition of Portugal Fashion with the necessary energy boost outside and inside the backstage. Bogani’s coffee was available at the event to delight and energize all the teams and public present at Alfândega do Porto.
The company Castelbel, specialized in the production of perfumed articles for the body and the home, has once again integrated the official gift bag of Portugal Fashion, providing luxury soaps to the guests of the event.
Companhia Portugueza do Chá is once again associated with the 50th edition of Portugal Fashion, presenting teas of various origins, which were included in the gift bags prepared for the event.
Define Design, a brand specializing in Product Design, allied itself to Portugal Fashion in the production of travel bag identifiers to be made available in gift bags. The brand privileges creativity, high customization, perfectionism in finishing, awareness and sustainability.
As the “new” accessory was not to be missed, Elastron was present at the event providing face masks to all the staff, models, production teams and the public. The masks with qualified protection and varied colors served all looks and were also included in the edition’s gift bag.
IQOS was present at the 50th edition of Portugal Fashion, bringing to the public its strategy of social and environmental sustainability and allowing the use of its products in the public spaces of the event.
United in the same space, Martin Miller’s and Schweppes were present at the 50th edition of Portugal Fashion to serve drinks to guests with access to the Gold room. The gin brand and the soft drink brand introduced their drinks to an audience that have not get tired of asking for more!
Metro do Porto has once again joined Portugal Fashion to promote the event on TV screens on board of the carriages, as well as in the metro stations.
MRôlo, a leading distributor of mannequins and commercial equipment for the fashion and retail industries, provided mannequins for the showroom of the 50th edition of Portugal Fashion, contributing to the exhibition of the designers’ pieces.
The Calçada Wines brand joined again the 50th Portugal Fashion to refresh the guests, serving premium wine in the edition’s Gold room. Quinta da Calçada’s cellars were founded in 1917, focusing on quality wines and sparkling wines.
The Portuguese brand Primor – Charcutaria Prima – joined Portugal Fashion to offer innovative ice cream and brownies to the public. The brand focuses on innovation and research, seeking new ways to evolve the state of the art and differentiation in the market where it operates.
Salsa Jeans, a Portuguese jeanswear brand born in the north of the country and known for its innovative denim products for all body types, had the important role of dressing all the staff of the 50th edition of Portugal Fashion. This task was completed in an excellent way with some totally denim jumpsuits for both genders. In addition, they produced the official tote bags of the edition and energized the brand in the Gold room and in the Brand Up of the event.
The shoes of the 50th Portugal Fashion staff were produced by the brand Sanjo. The staff had the opportunity to wear Sanjo sneakers during the four days of the event and experience all the comfort provided by the pioneer brand of sports footwear in Portugal, a long-time companion of the editions of the fashion show.
Red Bull was present in the spaces of the 50th edition of Portugal Fashion to refresh and energize the guests with its energetic and functional drink.
Re(veste) was responsible for the customization of the credentials of the 50th edition of Portugal Fashion. In addition to presenting its FW22/23 collection, the brand brought together the Re(veste) family to make the ribbons that make up the credentials of this edition, with the participation of collaborators, project participants, seniors and seamstresses. Sustainability was present through the reuse of credentials from past editions.
SoNatural, created in 2007, was present in the Portugal Fashion Showroom, bringing to the public its natural and nutritious juices. The brand prioritizes the quality of the final product and the quality of the ingredients that compose it, seeking to use fruits and vegetables in their natural state, 100% fresh.
To elegantly refresh the guests of the Gold room, Taylor’s joined the 50th Portugal Fashion event with the offer of one of the most recent novelties of the illustrious Port wine producing house. Launched in April 2021, Taylor’s Chip Dry & Tonic has emerged as the first ready-to-drink white Port & Tonic, in a can. Easy to carry, versatile and ready to be enjoyed anywhere.
EVENTS
AORP – Associação de Ourivesaria e Relojoaria de Portugal
AORP, the national association that represents the jewelry and watch sector, boosted the “Portuguese Jewellery Travessia” event at Sala das Ribeiras of the Porto Customs House, with a dinner presentation of the new international campaign launched at @expo2020dubai, and of the CROSSINGS exhibition, with the contribution of five Portuguese jewelry industries.
CONTRACOUTURA X SOHO KIDS PARTY @ PÉROLA NEGRA
After four days of great emotion, Saturday night was marked by a party at Pérola Negra after the event. The nightclub in the heart of the city of Porto received several guests of the 50th edition of Portugal Fashion.
From Lisbon to Oporto, the PRINÇIPAL magazine was at the event presenting the issue #27 to the public, at a special dinner at the Hotel Neya, dedicated to the launching of the magazine’s new issue. In addition, MODAPORTUGAL was also present at the event with a permanent showcase at Alfândega.
Casa do Design / MUDE — Museu do Design e da Moda
MUDE took the exhibition “Portugal Pop: Fashion in Portuguese 1970-2020” to the Casa do Design in Porto. The show brings together pieces that reflect a retrospective of half a century of national history. It includes pieces by designers who were present at the 50th edition of Portugal Fashion, such as Alexandra Moura and Alves/Gonçalves, and presents different perspectives of cultural and social evolution, reconciling fusions of new and old, rural and urban. A soft opening for the 50th Portugal Fashion edition was organized at the Casa do Design.
The NorteShopping Gallery, in Matosinhos, was the space for the exclusive exhibition “Bloom Talents by Portugal Fashion”, on March 18th. This show gathered creations from the winners of the Bloom competition powered by Zeitreel Sonae: Maria Carlos Baptista and Marcelo Almiscarado, and the designer awarded with an honorable mention in the same competition, Victor Huarte. This event included a brunch at the Bubbles & Pearls space, with a packed and varied menu available for guests.
Milan is the first international destination for Portugal Fashion in 2022, beginning with two shows in the official Italian Fashion Week calendar. David Catalán and Miguel Vieira will present their collections, in physical format, on Monday, January 17, at 11am and 12pm, respectively (local time), at Padiglioni Visconti, Via Tortona 58. The new year brings news, and a new concept, which combines, in addition to the shows and presentations, a commercial showcase, also on the 17th, which brings together international buyers to the two designers. It will take place in the Studio Zeta showroom, in Via Friuli, from 3:30 pm to 7 pm (local time).
This new format was thought up so that Portugal Fashion’s international bet is not only limited to the presentation, thus promoting business and communication opportunities.
Miguel Vieira brings us a “Black Dinner” for the winter of 2023, in a return to his color, black. With “classic tailoring pieces that combine with skirts; graphic or more organic patterns on shirts, ties and accessories; and fabrics rich in textures or with technical treatments”.
For David Catalán, the inspiration comes from “British school uniforms from the 60s and 70s, and the versatility and comfort of the English dress code. The idea was to work on the deconstruction of the beautiful, bringing a bit of rudeness, with the use of denim, creating more utilitarian clothes.
Step Forward – Portugal Fashion Showcase is, as the name indicates, a step forward; in the internationalization of Portuguese fashion and industry. It arises from the need, more concretely, to leverage business and promotional scope for brands and companies of Portuguese designers who aim to cross the Portuguese borders in search of greater profitability, thus spreading the name itself and the name of Portugal, and the national good.
The Step Forward – Portugal Fashion Showcase action aims to be present in the main international fashion weeks, such as Paris and Milan, strengthening the national presence, attracting buyers and opinion leaders, so important, and relevant, to spread the message and the name of Portugal out of doors. Promoting new contents, forms of presentation and approaches, the main focus of the actions will be on creating new business opportunities, with a view to export growth.
From Milan, Portugal Fashion goes to Paris. The duo Ernest W. Baker will present their collection, in hybrid format, on the 19th, from 10.30am to 2pm (local time), at the Palais de Tokyo – with a digital presentation on the French Fashion Week platform at 12.30pm (local time).
A collection where “the structure and details of timeless tailoring are explored, with the introduction of embroidery with meticulous finishing in handmade processes, keeping the symbol of the rose in the collection – representing, simultaneously, strength and fragility”.
In addition, and also part of the Step Forward – Portugal Fashion Showcase, Inês Amorim and Reid Baker’s brand will have a dedicated showroom at Rue Béranger 1919, on January 21 and 22.
CANEX Presents Africa @ Portugal Fashion provides a platform for the development of emerging fashion designers, by supporting the transfer of skills through mentorship from industry experts, while providing market access opportunities, to boost production, sales and distribution. The programme aims to equip participants with the skills that will enable them to create financially sustainable businesses with the potential to scale, as well as provide support with go-to-market and internationalisation strategies.
The programme has a blended format, mixing physical events with digital elements to enable linkages and partnerships. It is designed to support a generation of entry to mid-level talent, through a customized approach, to up-skill and individually support the development and recognition of talent.
The inaugural edition took place from 12 to 16 October 2021. Twenty African designers from the continent and diaspora took part in this pioneering edition, where they were able to showcase their Spring/Summer ’22 collections on the runway, as well as on an exhibition platform designed to facilitate linkages between the designers and industry stakeholders including the press, investors, manufacturers and buyers. In addition to showcasing platforms, the programme also included mentorship and networking sessions between the designers and key international industry experts.
2022 ANNUAL DESIGNER SELECTION CRITERIA
March Edition
Target: 20 Designers
Event Date: 16-19 March 2022, finalists to be announced on 25 January 2022
Location: Porto, Portugal
Deadline for applications: 10 January 2022
October Edition
Target: 20 Designers
Event Date: 11 – 15 October 2022, finalists to be announced on 30 April 2022
Location: Porto, Portugal
Deadline for applications: 1 March 2022
ELEGIBILITY CRITERIA
GENERAL ASSESSMENT CRITERIA
Applications will be reviewed against the following criteria:
Selected designers will fall in one of three Categories: Main Runway, Bloom Runway and Brand Up exhibition as below:
MAIN CATWALK DESIGNERS (5 SLOTS)
Portugal Fashion Week’s main catwalk is an international platform that is open to designers and brands who have produced at least five womenswear, menswear or unisex collections. The project is open to invited designers and brands, who, in addition to the general criteria, meet the following:
BLOOM Portugal Fashion is a platform for young designers and is open to designers under 35, those who have produced at least two womenswear, menswear, or unisex collections and who, in addition to the general criteria, meet the following:
BRAND -UP EXHIBITION (12 SLOTS)
In addition to the runway designers, the BRAND-UP exhibition space will be open to designers of leather goods, accessories, and jewelry brands.
SUBMISSIONS AND SELECTION PROCESS
The Application must be submitted to the review panel in electronic format.
The electronic submissions must be sent to: pf@creativeafricanexus.com with the SUBJECT line: “FIRST and LAST NAME, CANEX 2022 Application.”
JUDGING PROCESS
PHASE ONE
Submission of a completed form found here: https://forms.office.com/r/xJGCkSJtwC to pf@creativeafricanexus.com, with the following attachments in ENGLISH (uploaded) :
*No samples should be submitted unless requested.
Any questions regarding the application may also be submitted to pf@creativeafricanexus.com
PHASE TWO
Once the cohort selection has been officially communicated, the designers will be invited to sign an agreement that stipulates the conditions for participation. This will be followed by a designer introductory information pack that includes timelines, preparation and expectations leading up to the events in March and October 2022.
About Afreximbank
African Export-Import Bank (Afreximbank) is a Pan-African multilateral financial institution mandated to finance and promote intra-and extra-African trade. Afreximbank deploys innovative structures to deliver financing solutions that support the transformation of the structure of Africa’s trade, accelerating industrialization and intra-regional trade, thereby boosting economic expansion in Africa. The Bank has a rich history of intervening in support of African countries in times of crisis. Through the Pandemic Trade Impact Mitigation Facility (PATIMFA) launched in April 2020, Afreximbank has disbursed more than US$6.5 billion in 2020 to help member countries manage the adverse impact of financial, economic, and health shocks caused by the COVID-19 pandemic. A stalwart supporter of the African Continental Free Trade Agreement (AfCFTA), Afreximbank has completed the development of a Pan-African Payment and Settlement System (PAPSS) that was adopted by the African Union (AU) as the payment and settlement platform to underpin the implementation of the AfCFTA. Afreximbank is working with the AU and the AfCFTA Secretariat to develop an Adjustment Facility to support countries in effectively participating in the AfCFTA. At the end of 2020, the Bank’s total assets and guarantees stood at US$21.5 billion, and its shareholder funds amounted to US$3.4 billion. Afreximbank disbursed more than US$42 billion between 2016 and 2020. The Bank has ratings assigned by GCR (international scale) (A-), Moody’s (Baa1) and Fitch (BBB-). The Bank is headquartered in Cairo, Egypt.
It was a full comeback. The public once again made the Portugal Fashion runway vibrate in four intense days of fashion, which took place mostly at Alfândega do Porto. In all, 35 fashion shows and spring/summer 2022 presentations from almost 50 brands and creators. Human warmth was once again present at the event organized by ANJE.
But the return of the public was not the only remarkable fact of this edition, whose program extended from October 12th, with the event Portugal – Africa Investment Roundtable, until October 16th. The 49th Portugal Fashion had the participation of eight African fashion brands and designers, who held individual shows under the CANEX (Creative Africa Nexus) program. In addition, the BrandUp Market & Showroom and BrandUp Sessions with talks, workshops and pop-up stores open to the public returned to the Alfândega do Porto.
And if all this was possible, it was thanks to partners, sponsors and supporters who walked side by side with Portugal Fashion to raise, once again, the best of national fashion talent. THANK YOU ALL.
Institutional Partners
Afreximbank and Canex
The CANEX program (acronym for Creative Africa Nexus) is the result of a partnership between ANJE, through Portugal Fashion, and Afreximbank (African Export-Import Bank), with the aim of promoting the African textile and clothing industry in our country. In this sense, CANEX seeks to empower Africa’s creative and cultural sectors through public and private investments, initiatives to promote internationalization, training and mentoring programs, technical and technological partnerships, digital modernization actions, among other business and human capital qualification activities. For all this, CANEX has a support fund for creative industries worth $500 million (about 460 million euros).
Institutional partner of Portugal Fashion for another edition, the Porto City Council joined the 49th edition, supporting the project with increased resources in order to strengthen the event’s position in the national and international fashion scene, also highlighting the recognition of Porto as an industrial and creative hub. With this strategic cooperation, the goal was to increasingly boost the professional component of Portugal Fashion, in the framework of a city historically linked to the national manufacturing industries, in the textile, clothing and footwear sectors.
Hair
Official hair brand of the 49th edition of Portugal Fashion, the Portuguese Lupabiológica is the supplier of all hair cosmetics products and the responsible for ensuring the coordination of hairstyling services of the event. The Bioseivas products of this 100% Portuguese brand were also part of the official gift bag of Portugal Fashion.
Make up
MAC has been the official make-up brand of Portugal Fashion for a long time, ensuring the make-up of the fashion shows and productions of the 49th Portugal Fashion. It already has a wide range of products that meet the most rigorous demands of fashion makeup, such as lipsticks and eyeshadows, which were also present in the Portugal Fashion gift bags.
Sponsors
The 49th edition of Portugal Fashion had the premiere of the brand Bellissimo Cafés in the event. In addition to being part of the Gift Bag provided to the press, it was in charge of delighting and energizing all the teams and public present at Alfândega do Porto. The brand activation took place in the VIP room and in the outdoor patio for access to the invited public.
Bioderma, partner of this 49th Portugal Fashion, was present backstage taking an important role in cleaning the skin and preparing it for the make-up of fashion productions. Besides being the official skincare brand of this edition, its famous micellar waters could not be missing and were integrated in the gift bag offered to the press of the event.
PAC Capital is a leading transaction consulting firm with an excellent track record in fundraising and financial advisory services covering Aviation, Financial Services, Telecommunications, Power & Energy, Oil & Gas, Agribusiness, Hospitality, etc. As a strategic partner, they have allied themselves following the Portugal-Africa collaboration.
The Portuguese brand Primor – Charcutaria Prima joined Portugal Fashion, for the first time, in this edition. The brand offered meals to the press in an exclusive brand activation. During the days of the event, a private chef prepared, on the spot, delicious and innovative meals with Primor products.
WOW / Porto Fashion & Fabric Museum
With a privileged view of Porto, the WOW Porto is the new cultural quarter of the historical area of Vila Nova de Gaia, full of new experiences and novelties to be discovered. Presented in the last edition of Portugal Fashion, the space integrates, since then, the Porto Fashion & Fabric Museum- Fashion and Textile Museum which will be the stage of a promising initiative to be announced soon and that results from a partnership between Portugal Fashion, WOW and ModaLisboa.
Industrial Partners
ASM | ATP | Fashion From Portugal
The promotion of the development and internationalization of the Portuguese industry presides over Portugal Fashion’s strategic partnerships with business associations in the fashion industry, with entities such as the Porto Selective Association, the From Portugal project and Modtissimo. These partnerships allow Portugal Fashion to cover all sectors of the fashion industry and create synergies between them in order to strengthen the international dimension, differentiation capacity and competitive potential of Portuguese companies and products..
Under the banner MODAPORTUGAL, eleven national textile, footwear and clothing companies joined forces to produce the uniforms of the teams of the Portugal Pavilion at Expo Dubai. The creative process was signed by designer Filipe Augusto and was curated by Miguel Flor. The creative effort was joined by the companies Belcinto, Calvelex, Carité, Lameirinho, Marfel, Paulo de Oliveira, Polopiqué, Riopele, Trotinete, Twintex, and Vandoma, the Portuguese ambassadors of the clothing, footwear, and textile sectors that, in an exemplary manner, reaffirmed their industrial excellence in an aggregating project and a path of close cooperation and mutual support.
Lulubell is a consulting firm that offers services and tailored solutions for African luxury brands seeking to create and accelerate their business in global markets, while remaining conscious of the people they serve and the planet they inhabit. In this edition, they were responsible for articulating the connection between Portugal Fashion and the African designers that, under the CANEX project, integrated the runways (main and Bloom) and BrandUp of the 49th Portugal Fashion.
Hotels
As official hotels of the 49th edition of Portugal Fashion, the Neya and the Vila Galé hosted the other production teams of the event and the press who traveled to Porto. The offer of stays was essential to host such a diverse team. In addition to extending, as usual, to people from all corners of the country, this edition of the fashion show included, for the first time, an African entourage of designers and respective production teams, from various countries of the African continent.
TV
Sic Mulher was, for another year, the partner television of the 49th Portugal Fashion, supporting the promotion and communication of the event.
Radio
The radio station for great music, RFM, was associated with another edition of Portugal Fashion, promoting the official spot of the issue.
Media Partners
Caras | Forbes | Máxima | Porto Canal | Portuguese Soul | Saber Viver
Caras, Forbes Africa, Máxima, Porto Canal, Portuguese Soul and Saber Viver were the media that officially associated themselves with the event and closely followed all the action lived in Alfândega do Porto and other places of parades, from backstage to the environment that integrated, this time, the warm public. The publications of the media partnerships were essential to give more amplitude to the project’s communication plan.
Digital Media Partner
AMAKA is a digital publishing house that presents diverse and nuanced stories for women from Africa and the diaspora. They provide a platform that highlights and maintains the diversity, dynamism and vigor of pan-African femininity. In this edition, they covered the action that includes African designers on the runways of Portugal Fashion.
Monitoring Partner
A long-time partner, CISION walks alongside Portugal Fashion, permanently monitoring the event’s communication, both in the press and in the social networks. It is thanks to this monitoring partner that Portugal Fashion also evaluates all the impact of its action.
Responsibility Partner
Because fashion is more than fashion, Portugal Fashion has embraced the cause “Zero Deaths on the Road” that joined the consolidated Portuguese designer Katty Xiomara and the National Road Safety Authority (ANSR) in an irreverent fashion show with an urban register. In the fashion show DESFILAR EM SEGURANÇA, aesthetics allied with the noblest value that is human life, and a collection of 10 T-shirts on the most emerging themes of road safety: speed, alcohol, cell phones and safety devices.
Mobility Partner
Sixt was the company responsible for providing several premium vehicles and transfer shuttles during the various days of the 49th edition of Portugal Fashion. The transport offer was essential to boost such a diverse team. In addition to the event covering, as usual, people from all corners of the country, this edition of the fashion show included, for the first time, an African entourage of designers and their production teams, from various countries of the African continent.
Support
The Calçada Wines brand joined the 49th Portugal Fashion to refresh the guests, serving premium wine in the edition’s VIP room. Quinta da Calçada’s cellars were founded in 1917, focusing on quality wines and sparkling wines.
Castelbel, a Portuguese company specialized in the production of perfumed articles for the body and the home, integrated for another year the gift bag of Portugal Fashion, providing luxury soaps to the guests of the event.
The 49th Portugal Fashion had the best teas from the most varied origins, which were included in the gift bags of journalists and special guests. An offer from Companhia Portugueza do Chá.
IQOS, as a brand whose strategy for social and environmental sustainability has long been to support Portugal Fashion and its universe of creativity, was present in this 49th edition with backstage support and in the public spaces of the event.
Maskk is a national company that produces and sells masks and is ruled by the maxim of making personal protection less clinical and more exciting, offering creative designs to certified masks that fit the routine of any person. For this edition, Maskk developed an official mask for the event, which was included in the gift bag for the press and in the uniform of the 49th Portugal Fashion staff.
Being one of the transports of choice in Invicta, Metro do Porto has once again joined Portugal Fashion, to promote the event on TV screens on board the carriages, as well as in the metro stations.
Nazareth is a Portuguese clothing brand dedicated to inspiring women for their distinctive combination of kindness and personality. The brand has achieved a sustainable path and recently was part of the Local Goes Global Pop-Up initiative of ANJE – National Association of Young Entrepreneurs that traveled to Paris and London. In the 49th Portugal Fashion was responsible for the creative t-shirts that dressed the staff of the edition.
Salsa, from the Sonae group, is a Portuguese jeanswear brand, born in the north and already present in 35 countries. Dispensing with introductions, it is known for creating innovative, young, irreverent denim products for all body types. In this edition, the brand joined Portugal Fashion for the creation of the official “What’s That You’re Wearing” Tote Bag. Produced in a sustainable and conscious way, with leftover fabrics from Salsa, the tote bag was offered to the press of the 49th Portugal Fashion.
The Portuguese sports footwear brand was again present at Portugal Fashion. The staff had the opportunity to wear Sanjo sneakers during the 4 days of the event and experience all the comfort provided by the first brand of Portuguese sneakers, long-time companion of the editions of the fashion show.
Sonae Fashion (BLOOM CONTEST SUPPORT)
The 49th Portugal Fashion integrated in its digital programming several shows under the Bloom project, dedicated to the promotion and support of new Portuguese fashion talents, and specifically two shows associated with the BLOOM Contest powered by Sonae Fashion. Maria Carlos Baptista and Marcelo Almiscarado were the two young designers who presented their collections as winners of the competition.
The contest, supported by the Sonae Group’s fashion company, is a way to provide a unique educational and professional experience to young designers, thus contributing to their launch in the market.
To elegantly refresh the guests of the VIP room, Taylor’s joined the 49th Portugal Fashion event with the offer of one of the most recent novelties of the illustrious Port wine producing house. Launched in April 2021, Taylor’s Chip Dry & Tonic, emerged as the first ready-to-drink white Port & Tonic, in a can. Easy to carry, versatile and ready to be enjoyed anywhere.
It’s was full-on comeback. The public once again thrilled to the Portugal Fashion catwalk in four intense days of fashion, which took place mostly at Alfândega do Porto. In all, 35 fashion shows and spring/summer 2022 presentations of nearly 50 brands and creators. Human warmth was therefore again present at the event organised by ANJE, although this 49th edition also had a livestreaming, through the new Portugal Fashion portal and in a broadcast led by the actor Joana Barrios.
But the return of the public was not the only outstanding fact of this edition, whose programme extended from the 12th, with the event Portugal – Africa Investment Roundtable, until the 16th of October. The 49th Portugal Fashion counted with the participation of eight African fashion brands and designers, which held individual shows under the CANEX programme (acronym for Creative Africa Nexus). This programme is the result of a partnership between ANJE, through Portugal Fashion, and Afreximbank, with the objective of promoting the African textile and clothing industry in our country.
Besides the African creators, the programme of the 49th Portugal Fashion presented as usual, fashion shows of young fashion designers (Bloom platform), clothing, footwear and accessories brands and established designers. Highlights include the presence of Alexandra Moura, Alves/Gonçalves, David Catalán, Diogo Miranda, Ernest W. Baker, Estelita Mendonça, Fly London, Hugo Costa, Inês Torcato, Katty Xiomara, Luís Onofre, Maria Gambina, Marques’Almeida, Miguel Vieira, Nobrand, Pé de Chumbo, Sophia Kah and Susana Bettencourt, among others.
The event’s main centre was, once again, Alfândega do Porto, although there were off location fashion shows, in emblematic places of the city or with a special aesthetic ambience. It was also at Alfândega do Porto that the BrandUp – showroom and urban market of Portugal Fashion took place, which, due to the evolution of the country’s epidemiological situation, was once again held in this edition. Around 90 exhibitors were presented, with clothing, footwear, accessories and lifestyle items. In this edition, BrandUp included a pop-up store area dedicated to Portugal Fashion designers and a stage for talks and workshops.
For the director of Portugal Fashion, “the return of the public is great news. The catwalk needs people’s enthusiasm, vibrancy, emotion. However, digital technologies are an extremely useful resource for the promotion and marketing of fashion, meeting new consumer habits. Therefore, Portugal Fashion will once again be broadcasted online and can be seen all over the world.
Moreover, this edition is one of the most cosmopolitan ever, given that, in addition to Portuguese brands and designers with an international reputation, it also has the presence of African designers. It will be a great fashion party, with many fashion shows, diverse proposals, young designers, a showroom… and a warm hug to Africa”, concludes Mónica Neto.
“PARADING IN SAFETY” BY KATTY XIOMARA
The first day of fashion shows was dedicated to the young designers of Bloom and to African fashion, with the Tunisian brand Anissa Aida kicking off the 49th Portugal Fashion. On the following day, 14th October, we again had on the catwalk proposals with an African origin, but also the presentation of the new collection of Inês Torcato – a young designer who has had wide recognition in the fashion world. Other young designers are Nuno Miguel Ramos, who participated for the second time in the event, and Ana Sousa and Joana Braga, the two designers responsible for Unflower, the brand that moved from Bloom to the main catwalk.
Launched in 2018, Unflower is a slow-fashion Portuguese brand that combines the aesthetics of art with clothing. Their pieces create a fun universe, where colour and detail combinations reign. The brand assumes the values of quality, durability and sustainability, with all the pieces being produced in Portugal with extreme care and dedication.
After the Unflower show, a happening tooke place under the responsibility of the Ernest W. Baker brand. In a creative installation simulating a rose market, the video with which the duo’s new collection was unveiled at the Paris Men’s Fashion Week will be presented, with the support of Portugal Fashion.
Founded in 2017 in Viana do Castelo, Ernest W. Baker is a tribute to the eponymous grandfather of Reid Baker, one of Detroit’s first men in advertising, and combines the pragmatism of the American way of life with European elegance and classicism, in a clash of cultures that underlines the best of both worlds. In the new collection, Reid Baker and Inês Amorim’s brand continues to evoke the American imaginary, but with touches of sportswear and prints.
Next was another new feature of this Portugal Fashion. The National Road Safety Authority presented the collection “Parading in Safety”, designed by Katty Xiomara. The fashion show was part of the “Zero Fatalities on the Road” campaign and aims precisely to make citizens aware of road risks through fashion. Ten T-shirts designed by Katty Xiomara were unveiled, addressing, in an urban and irreverent way, the factors that most endanger road safety in our country: speed, alcohol, mobile phones and safety devices.
PREMIERE OF THE NEW M’A COLLECTION
The 2nd day of the 49th Portugal Fashion ended with the Marques’Almeida fashion show at the former Industrial Slaughterhouse (Matadouro Industrial) of Porto, in Campanhã. It was the first presentation of the brand’s new collection, in a fashion show that marks 10 years of creations by the couple Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida. The “Roots Porto” collection is part of the Marques’Almeida Environmental and Social Responsibility Manifesto, underlining the brand’s support for local communities. Furthermore, six young Porto designers and artists were invited to present their creations in parallel to the fashion show.
Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida describe their new collection as inherently fearless, with challenging colours, mixed prints, juxtaposed silhouettes, conflicting shapes and materials, and striking accessories. Key looks include corsets, recycled and worn denim, tie-dye prints, glittery feathers, fancy sleeveless tunics, tight pyjamas and silky skirts. All materials in the collection are sustainable, dyeing is done using natural techniques and waste has been reduced.
OFF LOCATION FASHION SHOWS AT THE CRYSTAL PALACE
The 3rd day of this 49th edition kicked off with two off location fashion shows. Diogo Miranda presented his new haute couture collection in the grounds of the Casa do Roseiral, in Porto, while Miguel Vieira unveilled his new unisex proposals next door, in the Gardens of the Crystal Palace (Palácio de Cristal). The designer from S. João da Madeira – who recently participated in the Milan Fashion Week with the support of Portugal Fashion – proposes, for the next warm season, the “Colours of the day”. The so-called collection is based on the idea of a “full agenda” with various scenarios, each with its own colours and silhouettes. Silk, 100% wool, super 110 wool and mercerised cotton are some of the materials that shape the new pieces.
This was followed by the sophisticated knits by Susana Bettencourt, the urban and irreverent menswear by Estelita Mendonça and the glamorous classicism of the Sophia Kah brand. Back from Milan, where he participated in the respective fashion week with the support of Portugal Fashion, David Catalán unveilled the “Madre” collection, in tribute to his mother. The Spanish designer based in Porto once again bets on denim but adds shirts with small ties and hoods in homage to the rural working classes. This results in comfortable, modern and urban proposals for men.
The programme for the 3rd day also included, among Portuguese names, the sustainable fashion shows by Pé de Chumbo and luxurious footwear by Luís Onofre. The businessman and designer from Oliveira de Azeméis is currently chairman of the European Confederation of the Footwear Industry and of the Portuguese Association of Manufacturers of Footwear, Components and Leather Articles and Its Substitutes (APICCAPS). Luís Onofre’s creations have already been worn by Letizia Ortiz, Michelle Obama and Paris Hilton, for example.
The historical Maria Gambina and Katty Xiomara opened the catwalk on the last day of fashion shows, followed by the presentation of the (re)veste project. Promoting the social inclusion and employability of young people with disabilities or special educational needs (aged between 15 and 35) through the development of social, personal, digital and professional skills are the main objectives of this project.
To this end, (re)veste includes clothing customisation workshops, in which a brand is being created for the transformation of clothing. The idea is to market the pieces executed by the project beneficiaries in an online shop and at events, thus promoting job creation. Miguel Flor is responsible for developing the brand, with the project supported by the textile industry and various institutional partners.
Also on the last day of the 49th Portugal Fashion, Carolina Sobral’s collection was on the catwalk – another bloomer on the main calendar – the footwear proposals of eight Portuguese brands (Ambitious, Fly London, Gladz, J. Reinaldo, Leathergoods by Belcinto, Mariano, Nobrand and Rufel), the oriental-inspired minimalist creations of DAVII and the bold menswear of Hugo Costa.
Before the event closed in the hands of the leading figures of Portuguese fashion, José Manuel Gonçalves and Manuel Alves, Alexandra Moura presented the “Trust Your Vision” collection. After Milan, where she anticipated spring-summer 2022 with the support of Portugal Fashion, the designer who is about to complete 20 years of career presented, in Porto, co-ordinates where she mixes punk and more underground notes with romantic inspirations, where pink is highlighted. The collection combines the urban with the classic, highlighting asymmetries, overlaps, knitwear, inside-out sets and multiple sleeves.
In this return to normality, the Bloom catwalk once again assumes a major role in the Portugal Fashion programme. On the 1st day of fashion shows, 13th October, it will be possible to discover the work of seven brands and designers that are emerging in Portuguese fashion. ARIEIV, AHCOR, Huarte, Marcelo Almiscarado, Maria Carlos Baptista, Rita Ibs and Vítor Dias are the names that represent, in this edition, Portugal Fashion’s support to new generations of designers.
The first young designer to present his proposals is Vítor Dias, winner of the 1st edition of the Bloom Portugal Fashion by Famalicão Textile City Ecodesign Competition. As the name indicates, it was a competition that awarded new creators whose work revealed special environmental sensitivity and sustainable concerns. The competition was organised by Portugal Fashion together with the Municipality of Vila Nova de Famalicão, with the support of CITEVE – Technological Centre for the Textile and Clothing Industries of Portugal. The final prize was, precisely, the possibility of participating in the 49th Portugal Fashion, under the Bloom project.
Later, the Bloom Upload collective fashion show takes place, a platform that brings together designers at a very early stage of their careers. This time, the works of AHCOR, Huarte and Rita Ibs will be revealed.
This is followed by the fashion shows of the winners of the Bloom Contest powered by Sonae Fashion, Maria Carlos Baptista and Marcelo Almiscarado. With the support of Sonae Fashion, the Bloom Competition is open to young fashion designers, with a view to their professional training, public promotion and integration into the labour market.
The eight finalists of the competition are given the opportunity to present their creations at Portugal Fashion, which happened at the 47th edition of the event. The two winners each received 4,000 euros to develop collections for the autumn/winter and spring/summer seasons and present them at the 48th and 49th editions of Portugal Fashion, in March/April and October 2021.
The last Bloom show will be held by the ARIEIV brand, created by designer José Pinto in 2017.
OVER 10 YEARS OF BLOOM
Portugal Fashion has a long history of competitions aimed at young creators, since the Aliança Programme, launched in 2004. In fact, the discovery, support and promotion of new fashion talents is one of the main objectives of Portugal Fashion, which in October 2010, in its 27th edition, created the Bloom project for this purpose. Since then, Bloom has enabled around 100 young designers and brands and nearly 200 students from nine fashion schools to present their collections.
Some bloomers have participated in international fashion shows and showrooms with the support of Portugal Fashion or its complementary commercial project, the Next Step, thus marking their presence in important fashion fairs in London, Paris, Milan, Vienna, Copenhagen, Rome or Madrid, for example.
Moreover, there is no shortage of examples of young designers who, after their apprenticeship at Bloom, consolidated their careers and today feature prominently in the main Portugal Fashion calendar. These are the cases of David Catalán, Estelita Mendonça, Hugo Costa, Inês Torcato and Susana Bettencourt, who are joined, for the first time in this 49th edition, by the Unflower brand and the young designer Carolina Sobral.
