It’s was full-on comeback. The public once again thrilled to the Portugal Fashion catwalk in four intense days of fashion, which took place mostly at Alfândega do Porto. In all, 35 fashion shows and spring/summer 2022 presentations of nearly 50 brands and creators. Human warmth was therefore again present at the event organised by ANJE, although this 49th edition also had a livestreaming, through the new Portugal Fashion portal and in a broadcast led by the actor Joana Barrios.
But the return of the public was not the only outstanding fact of this edition, whose programme extended from the 12th, with the event Portugal – Africa Investment Roundtable, until the 16th of October. The 49th Portugal Fashion counted with the participation of eight African fashion brands and designers, which held individual shows under the CANEX programme (acronym for Creative Africa Nexus). This programme is the result of a partnership between ANJE, through Portugal Fashion, and Afreximbank, with the objective of promoting the African textile and clothing industry in our country.
Besides the African creators, the programme of the 49th Portugal Fashion presented as usual, fashion shows of young fashion designers (Bloom platform), clothing, footwear and accessories brands and established designers. Highlights include the presence of Alexandra Moura, Alves/Gonçalves, David Catalán, Diogo Miranda, Ernest W. Baker, Estelita Mendonça, Fly London, Hugo Costa, Inês Torcato, Katty Xiomara, Luís Onofre, Maria Gambina, Marques’Almeida, Miguel Vieira, Nobrand, Pé de Chumbo, Sophia Kah and Susana Bettencourt, among others.
The event’s main centre was, once again, Alfândega do Porto, although there were off location fashion shows, in emblematic places of the city or with a special aesthetic ambience. It was also at Alfândega do Porto that the BrandUp – showroom and urban market of Portugal Fashion took place, which, due to the evolution of the country’s epidemiological situation, was once again held in this edition. Around 90 exhibitors were presented, with clothing, footwear, accessories and lifestyle items. In this edition, BrandUp included a pop-up store area dedicated to Portugal Fashion designers and a stage for talks and workshops.
For the director of Portugal Fashion, “the return of the public is great news. The catwalk needs people’s enthusiasm, vibrancy, emotion. However, digital technologies are an extremely useful resource for the promotion and marketing of fashion, meeting new consumer habits. Therefore, Portugal Fashion will once again be broadcasted online and can be seen all over the world.
Moreover, this edition is one of the most cosmopolitan ever, given that, in addition to Portuguese brands and designers with an international reputation, it also has the presence of African designers. It will be a great fashion party, with many fashion shows, diverse proposals, young designers, a showroom… and a warm hug to Africa”, concludes Mónica Neto.
“PARADING IN SAFETY” BY KATTY XIOMARA
The first day of fashion shows was dedicated to the young designers of Bloom and to African fashion, with the Tunisian brand Anissa Aida kicking off the 49th Portugal Fashion. On the following day, 14th October, we again had on the catwalk proposals with an African origin, but also the presentation of the new collection of Inês Torcato – a young designer who has had wide recognition in the fashion world. Other young designers are Nuno Miguel Ramos, who participated for the second time in the event, and Ana Sousa and Joana Braga, the two designers responsible for Unflower, the brand that moved from Bloom to the main catwalk.
Launched in 2018, Unflower is a slow-fashion Portuguese brand that combines the aesthetics of art with clothing. Their pieces create a fun universe, where colour and detail combinations reign. The brand assumes the values of quality, durability and sustainability, with all the pieces being produced in Portugal with extreme care and dedication.
After the Unflower show, a happening tooke place under the responsibility of the Ernest W. Baker brand. In a creative installation simulating a rose market, the video with which the duo’s new collection was unveiled at the Paris Men’s Fashion Week will be presented, with the support of Portugal Fashion.
Founded in 2017 in Viana do Castelo, Ernest W. Baker is a tribute to the eponymous grandfather of Reid Baker, one of Detroit’s first men in advertising, and combines the pragmatism of the American way of life with European elegance and classicism, in a clash of cultures that underlines the best of both worlds. In the new collection, Reid Baker and Inês Amorim’s brand continues to evoke the American imaginary, but with touches of sportswear and prints.
Next was another new feature of this Portugal Fashion. The National Road Safety Authority presented the collection “Parading in Safety”, designed by Katty Xiomara. The fashion show was part of the “Zero Fatalities on the Road” campaign and aims precisely to make citizens aware of road risks through fashion. Ten T-shirts designed by Katty Xiomara were unveiled, addressing, in an urban and irreverent way, the factors that most endanger road safety in our country: speed, alcohol, mobile phones and safety devices.
PREMIERE OF THE NEW M’A COLLECTION
The 2nd day of the 49th Portugal Fashion ended with the Marques’Almeida fashion show at the former Industrial Slaughterhouse (Matadouro Industrial) of Porto, in Campanhã. It was the first presentation of the brand’s new collection, in a fashion show that marks 10 years of creations by the couple Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida. The “Roots Porto” collection is part of the Marques’Almeida Environmental and Social Responsibility Manifesto, underlining the brand’s support for local communities. Furthermore, six young Porto designers and artists were invited to present their creations in parallel to the fashion show.
Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida describe their new collection as inherently fearless, with challenging colours, mixed prints, juxtaposed silhouettes, conflicting shapes and materials, and striking accessories. Key looks include corsets, recycled and worn denim, tie-dye prints, glittery feathers, fancy sleeveless tunics, tight pyjamas and silky skirts. All materials in the collection are sustainable, dyeing is done using natural techniques and waste has been reduced.
OFF LOCATION FASHION SHOWS AT THE CRYSTAL PALACE
The 3rd day of this 49th edition kicked off with two off location fashion shows. Diogo Miranda presented his new haute couture collection in the grounds of the Casa do Roseiral, in Porto, while Miguel Vieira unveilled his new unisex proposals next door, in the Gardens of the Crystal Palace (Palácio de Cristal). The designer from S. João da Madeira – who recently participated in the Milan Fashion Week with the support of Portugal Fashion – proposes, for the next warm season, the “Colours of the day”. The so-called collection is based on the idea of a “full agenda” with various scenarios, each with its own colours and silhouettes. Silk, 100% wool, super 110 wool and mercerised cotton are some of the materials that shape the new pieces.
This was followed by the sophisticated knits by Susana Bettencourt, the urban and irreverent menswear by Estelita Mendonça and the glamorous classicism of the Sophia Kah brand. Back from Milan, where he participated in the respective fashion week with the support of Portugal Fashion, David Catalán unveilled the “Madre” collection, in tribute to his mother. The Spanish designer based in Porto once again bets on denim but adds shirts with small ties and hoods in homage to the rural working classes. This results in comfortable, modern and urban proposals for men.
The programme for the 3rd day also included, among Portuguese names, the sustainable fashion shows by Pé de Chumbo and luxurious footwear by Luís Onofre. The businessman and designer from Oliveira de Azeméis is currently chairman of the European Confederation of the Footwear Industry and of the Portuguese Association of Manufacturers of Footwear, Components and Leather Articles and Its Substitutes (APICCAPS). Luís Onofre’s creations have already been worn by Letizia Ortiz, Michelle Obama and Paris Hilton, for example.
The historical Maria Gambina and Katty Xiomara opened the catwalk on the last day of fashion shows, followed by the presentation of the (re)veste project. Promoting the social inclusion and employability of young people with disabilities or special educational needs (aged between 15 and 35) through the development of social, personal, digital and professional skills are the main objectives of this project.
To this end, (re)veste includes clothing customisation workshops, in which a brand is being created for the transformation of clothing. The idea is to market the pieces executed by the project beneficiaries in an online shop and at events, thus promoting job creation. Miguel Flor is responsible for developing the brand, with the project supported by the textile industry and various institutional partners.
Also on the last day of the 49th Portugal Fashion, Carolina Sobral’s collection was on the catwalk – another bloomer on the main calendar – the footwear proposals of eight Portuguese brands (Ambitious, Fly London, Gladz, J. Reinaldo, Leathergoods by Belcinto, Mariano, Nobrand and Rufel), the oriental-inspired minimalist creations of DAVII and the bold menswear of Hugo Costa.
Before the event closed in the hands of the leading figures of Portuguese fashion, José Manuel Gonçalves and Manuel Alves, Alexandra Moura presented the “Trust Your Vision” collection. After Milan, where she anticipated spring-summer 2022 with the support of Portugal Fashion, the designer who is about to complete 20 years of career presented, in Porto, co-ordinates where she mixes punk and more underground notes with romantic inspirations, where pink is highlighted. The collection combines the urban with the classic, highlighting asymmetries, overlaps, knitwear, inside-out sets and multiple sleeves.
